NZ South Island II
Dunedin>N
Head north out of Dunedin for Waitati and along the scenic coast road through Warrington to Seacliff where there is a small museum worth a visit. Then go to Karitane with its strong Maori influence and historical importance as a first whaling settlement in the 19th Century. From Karitane, drive through Waikouaiti and Palmerston across the Shag River to Shag Point where sea lions can be spotted. There is a reef here said to be the upturned hull of a Maori canoe. Heading north again through Katiki you come to Moeraki Beach where you can see huge round boulders on the beach. Maori legend says they are food baskets turned to stone that were washed ashore from the great canoe that lies at the Shag River estuary. Onwards to Oamaru with its distinctive Victorian architecture made from local white stone. Another feature of this large town are the blue penguins.
Oamaru>ENE
The trip along the coast north to Christchurch is beautiful but then you would miss the drive inland along the Waitaki River valley. Just past Duntroon are the Takiroa rock drawings drawn with charcoal and ochre up on the limestone overhanging cliffs. You then come to the largest town in the valley, Kurow, with about 400 inhabitants, a campground and white stone buildings. The hydro-electric dams and their lakes are the main features of this journey, however. The Waitaki, Aviemore and Benmore dams are spectacular and provide about a third of New Zealand's power. There are plenty of tours offered and you can drive all the way round Aviemore and Benmore Dams before returning to the main road at Otematata and on to Omarama.
Omarama>N
A short way out of Omarama are the clay cliffs, a protected area of outstanding beauty with its ravines, gullies, pinnacles and sharp ridges eroded from the gravels and silts. Back onto the main road and north to Twizel then along Lake Pukaki and the Tasman Valley. Hopefully the weather will hold so you can see the spectacular views to the high mountains and glaciers. After a breathtaking drive you soon come to Mount Cook Village with cafe, campground and hotel. This is great walking country and there's a good viewpoint to see the snowy peaks and glaciers and, of course, Mount Cook. Also known as Aoraki this is a sacred Maori place and I felt a very strong feeling of peace as I gazed at the awesome beauty as the sun went down. Unmissable.
Aoraki (Mt Cook)>S>W
The scenery changes slowly from the stunningly spectacular to the merely magnificent as you drive south, west and north west to Lake Tekapo formed by the Waitaki Dams but no less splendid for it except for the electricity pylons. Tekapo has scenic flights available. Heading west from Tekapo go through Burke Pass into hill farming country and on to Fairlie and then Geraldine with its amenities, cafes and vintage car museum. You are soon through Ashburton to Christchurch from here. If you have more time you could take a more scenic route through Stavely, Alford Forest, Mount Hutt, Windwhistle, Glentunnel and then Christchurch. There are many opportunities for walking, camping, fishing, picnicking and even skiing along this route along with the usual high quality restaurants and cafes that New Zealand excels in.
Continued later...
NZ South Island I
New Zealand Driving
Compared with most other places, driving in New Zealand is a dream. You would have to go back over 50 years in England for comparable traffic levels. Roads are generally very good although be prepared for a few unmade ones. Scenery is breathtaking and if you drive slowly you should be able to take it in, instead of having to keep full focus on the road ahead. But watch out for sheep - there are 60 million of them so some will wander across your road! Weather can be changeable so it is often best to have coffee or lunch at one of the many excellent roadside cafes while a storm blows over. Food in New Zealand is second to none with every taste catered for. Many shops or restaurants have great local artwork on display. If you appreciate the finer things you can find them in some quite unexpected places. Driving around New Zealand certainly is a first class adventure!
Hire cars are very reasonably priced. Fuel is cheapest in larger towns, so top up accordingly. You will not be bored wherever you go on the South Island but here is a route you could try.
Queenstown>S>W>N
Queenstown has plenty of fun activities to offer which require an article on their own. When you're done, drive south along Lake Wakatipu through Kingston and down to Athol where the Lazybones Cafe is worth a visit. Then south again through more magnificent countryside to Five Rivers, turn right (west) and head for Te Anau. As you approach Te Anau you will get your first view of the spectacular Fiordland mountains.
Depending on the time of day, you may want to spend time in Te Anau or leave that for on the way back. The best time to drive north to Milford Sound is after 2pm, so the tourist coaches are on their way back and you don't get stuck behind one.
Heading north from Te Anau you pass many picnic areas where you can stop and enjoy the views or take a walk. Gunn's camp has a museum, shop and a campground. The owner is quite a comedian! Not far from Milford is a tunnel with a car park. I was fascinated to see fearless birds perching on car bonnets demanding to be fed! I have now discovered these are Kea birds and are just as funny as Mr Gunn! As you drive into Milford Sound there's the Lodge on the left where backpackers meet and eat. If you are camping out for the night, be sure to wear some ointment against the big black flies. The first cruise from Milford Sound is around 9:30am and is a must - 2.5 hours of awesome beauty with the Stirling Falls, Mitre Peak, Bowen Falls, seals, seabirds and sudden squalls just some of the delights.Milford Sound>S
Unless you have a boat the only way out of Milford Sound is the way you came in, so you get a second chance to stop at some of the places you missed on the way in, eg Mirror Lakes. From Te Anau head south for Manapouri, Blackmount and Te Wae Wae Bay where you can drive slowly along the southern coast pausing at Monkey Island, Cosy Nook and Colac Bay, before you reach Riverton where you might meet Wayne, Jan, Bruce and Brett along with great food and drink at the Beachfront Cafe.
Invercargill>E>N
The Catlins Coast route is the most scenic so head out of Invercargill east and south towards Otara then Waikawa with a diversion to Slope Point on the way. You will see farmland, fossilised forests, fiords, lakes, dolphins, sea lions, penguins and beautiful coastline. Continuing on you can visit the Cathedral Caves at Waipata Beach, the Scenic Reserve of Tautuku, Tahakopa Bay, PuraKaunui Bay, Surat Bay and Nugget Point, all with fantastic flora and fauna plus picnic, camping and swimming areas. Continue heading north-east through Balclutha along highway 1 to Waihola where you can turn right to Taieri Mouth and then along a beautiful coastal drive through Brighton, Waldronville and Green Island into the Scottish influenced city of Dunedin.
Part II describes a journey through Oamaru, Omarama, Aoraki (Mt Cook) and Christchurch